The Poop on Septic Systems
“Ooooh, that smell! Can’t you smell that smell?”
The lyrics to an old Lynrd Skynrd tune? Nah, just people’s
reaction when you’ve got septic problems. You can save yourself the
embarrassment and the nausea—and a whole lot of money in costly repairs—if you
learn a few things about septic systems.
In Michigan, you’ll commonly encounter three kinds of septic system: conventional, mound, and engineered. All three include a septic tank and a drainage field. The conventional system begins and ends with those two essential components, while the mound and engineered systems simply expand on them. So don your Latex gloves, take a deep breath, and prepare to get better acquainted with both of them, beginning with…
Your friend, the septic tank
Granted, you don’t care to develop a close, confidential relationship with your septic tank. For that matter, you’d prefer that it not show up at your yard parties. But that big container buried in your property does some very good things for you when it comes to maintaining a safe, sanitary home.
Square or rectangular in shape, your septic tank has a holding capacity of 800 gallons or more. It is most likely constructed of reinforced concrete, although plastic or fiberglass may be used under certain conditions. The tank is installed
· at least ten feet from your house, to avoid home damage during tank maintenance; and
· at least fifty feet from any water well, to prevent contamination.
Your septic tank serves a single purpose: receiving and processing wastewater from your house. Here’s how the process works:
Your pal, Danny Drain Field
Danny is not someone you want to share a fine wine with. His tastes are notoriously unrefined. But he’s a whiz at treating effluent in a way that allows it to break down and disperse harmlessly into the soil.
Your drain field consists of a network of four-inch, perforated pipes laid in gravel-filled trenches two to three feet wide, or on beds of gravel over three feet wide. Effluent that flows into the pipes trickles out of the perforations, through the gravel layer, and into the soil. Processes in the soil then break down the effluent and remove pathogens. Plants absorb some of the effluent and convert it into usable nutrients. Chemical and biological processes in the soil take care of the rest. Thanks to Mother Nature’s intricate, organic filtration process, by the time the effluent finally does reach the ground water, it is simply—water.
Danny being the modest guy that he is, he typically conceals his work two feet beneath the surface. He does have certain preferences, though, when it comes to soil types. Porous, relatively dry soils allow more oxygen to fuel the processes involved. Sand is best. Other soils can also work, with modifications to the system.
How large is a drain field?
As big as it takes to do the job properly. Drain fields come in all sizes and shapes. To cite a real-life example, a drain field for a small cabin built on sandy soil was installed in three side-by-side trenches, each three feet wide and fifty feet long. Total size of drain field: 450 square feet.
Every new drain field also requires a designated replacement area. This area must remain unimproved should the existing system require repair or an addition.
You’ve just received a proper introduction to the two key components of every septic system: the septic tank and the drain field. Now you can easily understand the three kinds of system that are in common use. Health department regulations, which vary from county to county in Michigan, will determine which system you use. A critical tool used in making this decision is a…
Soil evaluation
Also known as a perk test, a soil evaluation is the first step in determining whether a property is suitable for a home. The county health department conducts a number of three-inch, five-foot-deep soil borings. After carefully analyzing the soil types and conditions at each level, the department then specifies the location, size, and type of system best suited for your home. That system will be one of the following.
Conventional gravity-flow system
This kind of septic system is the most common. It works entirely by gravity. Wastewater from your plumbing flows into the septic tank. Effluent flows out of the tank into your drain field, and your drain field does its job. The conventional gravity-flow system is as basic as you can get. It’s simple and effective. Other systems are just variations on this setup.
Mound system
Also known as a raised system, the mound system is used in situations where ground water lies close to the surface, or where the soil is too dense or otherwise less than ideal. This system introduces two extra components: a smaller tank with a pump, called a dosing tank; and a raised mound of sand, anywhere from six inches to four feet high, on which the drain field is situated.
Effluent flows from the septic tank into the dosing tank. The tank pumps the effluent out into the distribution pipes of the drainage field, where it disperses in the normal fashion. Slight pressure from the pump assists in even dispersal throughout the field.
Mounds should be laid out as long and narrow as possible, to ensure that wastewater infiltrates the soil beneath and moves away from the mound. Constructing a mound shorter and wider than recommended can result in the surfacing of partially treated wastewater.
Fine, you’re thinking, but who wants a big, unsightly bump in the middle of their property? Relax. A typical raised system of six to twenty-four inches is easily blended into the contours of your lot. In rolling or sloping terrain, even a large mound can be made to appear as a natural part of the landscape. Bottom line: you’d probably never notice unless you were told.
Engineered system
An engineered system meets the demands imposed by a smaller parcel size, by soil or groundwater conditions, or by other factors that a conventional system or a basic mound system can’t adequately address. An engineered system may or may not involve a mound. It will definitely include a filter, designed to pre-treat the effluent prior to its dispersal through the drain field. A pump may also be used to ensure even, low-pressure distribution through the pipes. Whatever its components, an engineered system provides a solution for septic problems unique to your property.
“I love my septic system and want it to have a long, happy life.”
That’s beautiful. You’ll be glad to know that your septic system isn’t high-maintenance. Treat it with a little care and attention, and it will serve you contentedly for many years. Here are a few do’s and don’ts that will keep your system performing optimally, prolong its life—and save you $$$.
Do
Have a licensed operator pump out your septic tank whenever necessary. Typically that’s every two to five years.
Practice water conservation.
Spread out laundry over the week and avoid half-loads.
Make sure your appliances are in good operating order—no leaky faucets, no stuck toilet float valves, and so forth.
Consider water-saving faucets, showers, and toilets.
In short…the less water you use, the less demand you place on your septic system. Divert water sources other than your plumbing away from your drain field and well. Such sources include roof drains, house footing drains, sump pumps, and runoff from driveways and patios.
Have your system inspected every year.
Ensure that your septic tank’s outlet is equipped with a tee or a baffle. A baffle prevents scum from discharging into the drain field.
Sketch a map showing the locations of your septic tank, drain field, and well. Keep your map with your maintenance record for service visits.
Cut the grass over your drainage field. The shorter, the better.
Contact your health department with any problems or questions regarding your septic system.
Don’t
NEVER go down into your septic tank, and use extreme care even when looking into the lid opening. The toxic gases can kill you within minutes.
Never allow heavy vehicles to drive over or park on the drain field.
Don’t cover your drain field or replacement area with any kind of impermeable material. Doing so will impede oxygenation and hinder system maintenance
Don’t repair your septic system without consulting the health department. You may need a permit.
Don’t poison your system with harsh chemicals, whether flushed down your toilet or washed down a drain.
Don’t use septic tank additives. They rarely help, and they can actually harm your system.
It may be ugly, but it loves ya
Your septic system will never win any beauty contests, but it’s indispensable for making your home a safe, pleasant place to live. When Waterland Homes LLC builds your new house, count on us to install the system that is best designed to meet the requirements of your property. We get it right for you at the beginning to spare you problems down the road.
Optimum sanitation with minimal frustrations—that’s your septic system.
Call it ugly if you want to, but we call it love.